What is Extended Producer Responsibility for textiles and what does it mean for the fashion industry?
In my day job I work in environmental compliance, and Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for textiles is a hot topic at the minute, with the European Parliament having recently voted in favour of legislation for fashion and accessories.
Essentially, EPR aims to shift our consumption habits from linear, where we buy something to use a few times then throw away (likely into landfill), to a circular, where waste is reduced and resources are used over and over, extending the lifecycle of products for as long as possible.
In an ideal world, brands would take it upon themselves to make their products more sustainable and durable simply because they want to do good for the planet, however this is not the case, because profit is king (thanks capitalism!). As a result, and because most people now realise the resources we have are not infinite and that something must be done to preserve them, environmental legislation, such as EPR, is coming into force, incentivising businesses to consider the environment when producing textiles.
If it wasn’t for my job, I would have no idea what EPR is, and thought this might be the case for others too, so I’m hoping this blog will explain what it is it in more detail, how it could benefit the fashion industry, and why lobbying governments to enforce environmental legislation will (hopefully) lead to systemic change.
What is Extended Producer Responsibility?
Extended Producer Responsibility is a type of environmental policy where the management of a product at the end of its life lies with the producer, rather than the consumer. As a result, producers are encouraged to design and produce goods that are easy to reuse or recycle, or else they will incur high costs under EPR legislation. In theory, this should encourage producers to make products in an environmentally responsible way, to avoid high compliance costs. All producers will have to pay fees under EPR in order to comply, which will contribute towards the collecting, sorting, reusing, and recycling of materials.
EPR legislation has already come into force in the UK this year for packaging, which is why you will likely have seen many big brands switch to recyclable packaging, such as paper-based wrapping rather than plastic or film. This is because they will be charged higher fees under EPR legislation for difficult to recycle packaging, with these fees going towards the waste management of this harder-to-recycle material.
The same theory will apply to textiles. The legislation has passed its first reading and will be followed up by the EU Parliament in June. If passed, member states would be mandated (read: forced) to introduce EPR legislation for textiles within 18 months. Whilst this legislation will not impact the UK directly, the pressure will likely mount on the UK government to implement legislation should the EU vote in favour of EPR for textiles.
British charity Waste and Resources Action Plan (WRAP) has been lobbying for greater circularity in the textiles industry, with its voluntary Textiles 2030 initiative, which a number of stakeholders and producers are already signed up to, committing themselves to improving the circularity of the textiles industry and guiding the government to shape policies. Voluntary initiatives such as these are encouraging producers to consider making positive changes such as incorporating more recycled fibres into their clothing or offering repair services, which will put them in good stead should EPR for textiles legislation come into force. Unfortunately, the majority of large fashion brands will likely only act once law has been passed, mandating them to make environmentally-friendly changes or pay-up large fees.
So, what will EPR for textiles mean exactly for the fashion industry?
According to the European Commission, 12.6 million tonnes of textile waste is generated annually in the EU alone, with less than 1% of textiles worldwide being recycled into new products, highlighting the need for change within the industry.
Under the proposed legislation, the definition of textiles extends to clothing, accessories, bedding and footwear, meaning it will impact many producers and sellers of these types of items.
To avoid having to pay high fees for the disposal of their textiles, manufacturers will have to design products that are easy to recycle, whether this means making them from recyclable materials or designing them in a way so that the materials they are made from are easy to be separated and recycled.
Businesses will also be encouraged to promote circular initiatives to customers, such as offering take-back systems to collect and recycle old clothing, likely in return for offering customers a discount for part-taking in these activities, which will reduce the amount of waste ending up in landfill. Repair services will also likely be offered to customers to extend the longevity of items.
Investment is increasing in fibre-to-fibre recycling facilities, such as The Salvation Army Trading Company’s Fibresort technology, which sorts clothing and textiles by fibre type, blend and colour for recycling into new textile products. Whilst commercial fibre-to-fibre recycling is not yet available, this type of infrastructure will be pivotal to the future of a circular fashion industry, where little to no waste is generated because textiles are repeatedly recycled and reused.
How could EPR lead to systemic change in the fashion industry?
It is hoped the implementation of EPR could lead to systemic change within the industry, such as fashion brands changing their business models to support the circular economy, offering repair or rental services for the textiles they sell, in turn extending their lifespan. This shift could see less volume of product overall being produced, leading to less waste ending up in landfill or being incinerated.
The reduced production of clothing could lead to systemic behavioural change from consumers, reducing the need for the current 52 micro-seasons adopted by many fast fashion brands. With a shift towards more sustainable consumption habits and a focus on quality over quantity, consumers may start to prioritise timeless, durable, versatile pieces that can be worn across multiple seasons, rather than constantly chasing fleeting trends.
Conclusion
Overall, Extended Producer Responsibility for textiles represents a crucial step towards creating a more sustainable and circular fashion industry. EPR incentivises innovation from businesses, encourages investment in recycling infrastructure, and promotes a shift towards more sustainable business models.
As consumers become increasingly aware of the environmental consequences of fast fashion and the finite nature of our resources, there is growing momentum for change. EPR legislation, coupled with voluntary initiatives like WRAP's Textiles 2030, have the potential to drive systemic change within the fashion industry, leading to a reduction in waste, increased recycling rates, and a shift towards more responsible consumption habits.
Ultimately, the success of EPR in transforming the fashion industry will depend on collaboration and commitment from all stakeholders, including governments, producers, retailers, and consumers.
